Archive for Rv Repair Tips
marine yanmar engine overheated is it ruined?
Posted by: | CommentsWe have a 1985 Yanmar 3GM30 with 2200 hours on it.
In April 2010, I just changed the oil, transmission oil, oil filter, secondary fuel filter, zinc, and water impellor gasket (not the water impellor).
The engine is raw water cooled.
After all of this maintenance we took the boat out for a trip and used the engine for about 2 hours. There was no problem.
Then this weekend all hell broke out.
When we started the engine up, we saw water coming out of the exhaust so everything seemed fine. We motored out of our marina and up the river. After about 15 minutes an engine alarm went off at the starter panel, I flipped the RPM switch and the alarm turned off but the RPM needle stopped reading also. I figured it just shorted or something. About 5 minutes later the engine turned off.
We wern’t sure why it stalled but, it has stalled before so we just started it back up and after a few trys it came on. This only lasted about 1 minute then the engine turned off again. So we said owell and put the sails up and sailed up the river.
A couple minutes later we noticed a light smoke coming from the cabin. Fire extinguisher in hand I opened up the engine compartment and there was alot of smog/smoke coming off the engine. We opened up the cockpit engine access too to let smoke out but there was no fire.
At this point we realized that the engine has overheated.
We sail for another 45 minutes untill we lose wind and without the wind power we accidently run aground. The smoke had all cleared and the engine wasnt as hot so we attempted to use the engine to get us off the ground. The engine came right on and we used it for about 5 minutes before giving up and turning off the engine.
We called Boat US Towing and they pull us off the ground. At this point we should have let them tow us home boat we thought the enigne wasnt so bad since it came on and worked fine after cooling off so we just had him let us go and we sailed to a near by anchorage. When we got the anchorage we turned the engine on for about 2 minutes to get in a good location, at this point we noticed that no water was coming out of the back exhaust. I went below and saw a slight leak at the hose between the water filter and water pump. I tightened that hose as well as all the other hoses related to the cooling system. We tried the engine again and still no water came out the back so we truned it off and left it off for the night.
The next morning we opted not to use the engine and sailed off the anchor and out of the anchorage. But as we were leaving the wind was not strong enough and the current threatened to put us aground again. So as a last ditch effort we turned on the engine to attempt to get us away from the shoal. But instead the engine stalled in forward gear, and would not return to neutral or reverse. We abandon the engine option and manage to dodge the shoal via sail.
On the sail back home, I went down to the backside of the engine compartment to check out why the gear would not leave forward. It was just stuck and only moved slightly back and forth but not enough to enter neutral or reverse.
Also while I was on the back side I noticed that the plastic container between the exhaust manifold/elbow and the exhaust pipe where the exhaust and water meet has partially melted and there was a large hole in the side of it. There was also oil sprayed around this area of the engine compartment.
We had Boat US Towing put us back in our slip and now we have some repairs on our hands.
My plan is to focus on the cooling system and transmission. I will change the water impellor, check/replace all tubing, and ofcourse replace that plastic mixing container. On the transmission side I will consult a Diesel mechanic.
One mechanic friend of mine said that I probably ruined the whole internal engine and will need to have a complete rehaul or buy a new engine.
So my question is, do you think this engine is ruined and what advice can you give me on repairs?
2005 Seadoo Engine Compartment Took On Water, What should I do ?
Posted by: | CommentsHello,
I have a 2005 Seadoo RXT Supercharged jet sky that took on water in the engine compartment and went dead.
I took it home and drained the water from the hull and removed plugs and turned engine over to remove water from motor.
While doing so I think the silanoid went out ? I can’t get it to do nothing now when I press the start button but I can get it to turn over bipassing the silanoid.
Is there any Info. on what I can do ?
A mechanice said it needs to be took down and repaired because if water gets in the supercharger it could build pressure and warp rods. Is this true ? What should be done ?
Any help greatly apprecaiated.
Could replacing transmission cause a blown head gasket the next day?
Posted by: | CommentsI have a 2002 Acura TL-S with 160k miles. I had the Acura dealership replace the transmission (for the 4th time since I’ve owned the car), and when I drive it home I noticed a leak in my driveway (brownish liquid). I drive the car the next day and the temperature gauge goes above the red, so I have it towed back to the dealership. Now they are telling me my head gasket is blown and they are not responsible!!! This is crazy, the very next day after they replace my transmission and it breaks?
Here is a summary of the work order they did when they replaced the trans.. Does anyone think these could be related and they are responsible?
– Customer states transmission is slipping
– Tech installed transmission and test drove
– Tech performed the mpi world class inspection
– Tech notes front motor mount broken and trans mounts needed too
– Tech replaced the motor mounts as he was reinstalling the transmission
– Straight time discussed with Frank for bolt as tech was removing trans. Some of the threads from the engine came out with bolts. Frank authorized replacement of the threads through the helicoil process. Tech replaced the threads an trans was re-installed.
Can anyone give me some information about if they could have screwed something up while do the repairs? It’s too much of a coincidence for me to believe they had nothing to do with it..
Thanks!
1986 Plymouth Conquest TSi Vin N?
Posted by: | CommentsI own an 86 Conquest that i got for a steal at $1900 and it’s pretty minty fresh. It only has 103,000 miles on it and everything is all original. It has a few minor spots of rust but nothing at all for an 86, the frame and underbody is solid. But down to the point:) I was driving it home from buying it and the guy told me it had a rod knock and that i should sent the crank out soon to get machined and then fitted with oversized bearings. Well aboot a half hour or so of driving, a tiny knock turned into a huge conundrum riddled with plumetting oil pressure, severe turbo lag, and the most ungodly knock ever. I pulled over to check what the hell was up. It managed to overheat because of a loss in oil because a quart or more was gone. Well i decided to spend the $60 to rent a uhaul trailer the next day to stop from hurting her anymore. So after that me and my dad thought the oil pump went out. I took off the valve cover to notice some adjustment screws missing but learned that these were just for the jet valves. We tried adjusting them and noticed that the passenger side rockers and one drivers side rocker weren’t spitting oil. We further took the rockers off to find that the valve adjustment plugs (i like to call them spring loaded jelly beans) were solid and just knocking on the valve springs, this was the knock. So i bought 8 new ones for $20 a piece, thinking i had the problems all solved. They came the next day and i put them in. I put it all back together and noticed that it would knock, then stop, then knock again and so on. So dad takes the oil cap off to feel the pressure and it’s like a damn exhaust pipe on the top end of my motor. There is a pretty plentiful vent of air pushing out of the valve cover. So, we boiled it down to either valves, valve seats, piston rings, or the pcv valve. I took the plugs out and they are all fouled black as hell from burning oil, but it isn’t enough for the exhaust to blow smoke, but it does burn oil and it either leaks in through the valves or past the rings. I tested the compression on the rear piston but it was 75 the first time and then 100 the second time. I know that can’t be right at all. I figure it’s supposed to be around 200 but i’m not sure. Does anyone know how many foot pound of compression i should have per cylinder? I’d like input on this because I can’t find any help online and i can’t find a repair guide even though that wouldn’t help much. Someone told me it could also be some worn seals in my turbo, causing air to run through the oil lines and come out in the valve cover, but i think my compression test shows it’s a ring or valve problem. Also, what’s the difference between the Vin H model and the Vin N? I feel like and idiot for asking but is there a difference besides a letter? Thank you for any help:) I just really need to know the numbers for my compression in each cylinder. I’m checking all 4 cylinders tonight. Thanks
i am definately not selling it and i know where to look for parts. I can get them all but i just need to know the compression so i can pinpoint the problem. Mine just sat. And there is no reason to sell it because i recently bought it and it’s worht over $4000 in its condition and i’ve always wanted one. I have no problem getting parts. I go to rock auto or advanced and even on forums and i could pretty much build a new one with parts
lolz
there’s no way i’m getting rid of it
it’s too nice and rare
that’s why i want it
to show everyone what’s up and not to be every ricer kid out there with a civ, 240, or dsm
Excuse me? SMD!!! I know exactly what i’m talking aboot and i want to see you find one of these in fair condition for under 3 grand!!! and it valves or rings, we have it all apart and they are both bad from sitting and then overheating. i bet you i could tear down my entire before you can change the oil. Why don’t you learn how to speak to people instead of being an old wrench turning highschool dropout!! eat a dick
Why is my computer messed up?
Posted by: | CommentsHi , I have a custom built pc (by myself) , this desktop was running great for about a year , until it started shutting off while playing games, it doesnt actually power off, i can still hear it running, and my screen goes black so i just power it off manually, also my cd drive doesn not want to open. I can just hear the motor running and it tries but will not open up. I took it to a computer repair shop, they said it opened for them just fine, and that all diagnostic test came up fine. So I brought it home and the problem still occurs, i couldnt get the disk drive to open. The disk drive is really all im worried about, Also….. in the past when i have powered off my pc, there have been times where the pc just would not turn back on, pushing the power button did nothing, this is when i take the side panel off and put it back on , Viola! , the pc start up >< , i dont know why this happens, but i think something may be lose inside my pc and I cannot figure out what it is ? Any Suggestion? thanks
Okay i am a little mechanically inclined…so its not completely obvious to me. but I blew out a radiator hose on the way home from work…i made the repair and put antifreeze back in it…i have never put straight water in my vehicle because of obvious reasons…anyways…now that i have made the repair and replaced the lost antifreeze, when i start my car it leaks straight water no discoloration or mixture of any kind only water and only when it is running. if it idles the leak is slow but when i give it throttle it sends a steady stream. the leak is towards the back of the motor but i have not been able to locate the source…any advice would help. btw
Pontiac 3.4L SFI v6 motor running hot but not over heating and not all the time?
Posted by: | CommentsPlease read entire post I’m really stuck and i’m ready to call it quits.
Little over a year ago this motor over heated and took a head gasket. I could not due the repair at that time due to money problems. So the car sat 1 year.
So I just finished the rebuild I replaced all gaskets and used new bolts everywhere. Heads, exhaust, intake manifold. I had the heads cleaned and pressure tested by a machine shop just to make sure nothing was cracked. . I cleaned the valves and lap’ed then in. New valve seals, New plugs, new wires, and new coil packs (3). New radiator and new hoses (both) upper and lower. New temp sensor, new thermostat, and new radiator cap. I also replaced the water pump and put in a new belt.
I Pressure tested the coolant system and it held pressure over night (no leaks) I filled the motor with new oil and new coolant. I had to replace the battery dead and would not take a charge. I started the car and it started right up and sounded good. Using the bleeder valves I took my time to burt the air out of the coolant. I had the heat on high to get the air out of the heater. The refill procedure says to run the car until with the heat on until the coolant fan turns on and off 3 times. The fan never turned on. I drove the car to a gas station to get some fresh gas and drove it home maybe 10 miles round trip. I was very happy the car seemed to be running well. So later that night I took it out for another test drive and again before leaving I started the car and opened the bleeder’s and made sure no air.
Now driving the car the 1st 15 miles everything was ok temp was running normal and then the car seemed to start sputtering and i looked at the rpm’s the gauge was going crazy up and down very unstable and the battery light would come on and go off It kept running so I kept driving and this problem would come and go the rest of the way home about 15 miles. As the motor was sputtering I noticed the temp was going up higher and higher as soon as i pulled into my driveway the car died. It started right back up but was hot not over heating but it was hot.
The fan never turned on. So I started there not knowing if the sputtering was causing the high heat or the high heat was causing the sputtering or if they are not related. I tested the relays all 3. I opened them the manually triped and the fans turned on and the speed would increase. I also pulled them and tested the coil with a 9v battery and the relay would turn on and off. I’m guessing that this might be a computer problem but do not know. Are the problems related? I dont know But I could use some advise as to where to go next. Also its a front wheel drive so the cooling fans are electric.
Thank you for your time
Dave thank you for reading. The coolant temp sensor is the only thing other that the computer that turns on the fan (that I’m aware of) and the relay does test good and if I manually trigger the relay’s I can turn on 1 fan or both fans and at both low speed and high speed. This one really has me stuck.
We can’t afford an ad in the yellow pages or yellow book.
So of these which is the best choice?
FLYERS
COLD CALLING ( of course with proper authority)
NEWSPAPER AD
NETWORKING WITH BUSINESSES. If so then how?
PLease, my partner and I are very good at what we do. I was a home based vacuum cleaner repair business, but when Wallymart moved in it ruined my steady business. Hey when you can get a Bissel for $39 what in the haeck can i do. Although I will say this. I can take any vacuum and for $30 make it like new again. The secret is to do a 100% tare down and clean everything. You can even spray down the motor as long as you use high pressure air to dry it out. No local shop does this. In fact one shop here in Columbus Ohio, who is also the biggest ( they have 4 locations) said that they can’t do complete tare downs and cleaning because it costs $10,00 for the special machine to do it with. Fact is that they make money hand over fist by charging customers for new filters and selling vacs.
SERIOUS HONEST ANNSWERS PLEASE!
I had turned onto the interstate when all my lights came on and the brakes and power steering were hard to control. I was terrified of because of so many big rigs and traffic. I sat on the side for an hour waiting foor them to get there, and another 2 hours for them to put on an oil filter and pour in the oil, then another 45 minutes or so for the motor to cool so it would crank. The clatter when i started to drive it told me it was burned up, so i immediately took the first exit and went stright to the manager. I am in another city stranded here with a friend i was visiting, but should have been at home last friday. Should I be entitled to more than a new motor? And if so, how do i go about getting the insurance company to cough it up??
sorry, i ommited that I had just left from the lube and oil service center at wal mart..
There was no oil filter, or oil. My motor had only 44 thousand miles on it.
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